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Prag är nog min favoritstad. Inte den hårt turisttyngda Stare Mesto, där man får armbåga sig fram genom horder av italienare och tyskar, utan det Prag som Pragborna själva lever i. Det blir lätt pretentiöst och förutsägbart att säga en sådan sak, eftersom alla nuförtiden är noga med att framhålla det genuina och det autentiska, vart man än åker. Men faktum är att jag varit två gånger i Prag och aldrig sett vare sig astronomiska uret, Klementinum eller Judiska Museet. Jag har heller inte uppehållit mig mer än nödvändigt i gamla staden.

Däremot har jag gått på den enorma skabbiga underbara utomhusmarknaden i Vltavská där allt från fejk-Gucci till färska kycklingar prånglas ut som vore det Jerusalems tempel för 2000 år sedan. I ett stort klädstånd blev jag inknuffad i ett mörkt hemligt rum av en kinesisk försäljarkvinna som uppenbarligen tyckte jag såg rik ut: där fanns riktiga märkeskläder till skillnad från de taskiga kopior som dominerade tältet i övrigt. Eller i alla fall tror jag att det var det hon ville ha sagt. Hon pratade enormt dålig engelska och formligen kastade väskor och skor på mig. "Tjipp! Tjipp! Bely kaliti! Leel sing!*" upprepade hon om och om igen för att verkligen inskärpa att jag kunde få äkta kvalitetsvaror till ett billigt pris. Jag avstod artigt. Jag gillar HM bättre än Gucci och Versace.

Jag har också botaniserat i tjeckiska matvarubutiker, till den milda grad att pojkvännen lade pannan i djupa veck och frågade "Tänk på att du ska ha med dig allt, Margit". Jag köpte inlagda körsbär (smakade okej), inlagda plommon (absolut vidriga!), inlagd rödkål, någon slags salamismakande köttpastej som smakade ister och hade den vidrigaste konsistens jag någonsin stött på - som jag tänker mig att det skulle kännas att tugga ruttet lik! - vegeta (hälften kryddblandning, hälften grönsaksbuljong), till-sätt-bara-vatten-houskové knedlíky, ett slags brödchips med vitlökssmak och små croissanter med champagnecremefyllning. För att bara nämna några av alla de saker jag fraktade hem, innerligt svärande över den tunna axelremmen som skar in i mitt axelfläsk. Men det var det värt.

Slutligen vill jag påpeka att ett Pragbesök inte är komplett utan minst ett besök på mikrobryggeriet och restauranten Pivovarský Dùm. Minst ett, eftersom de har så många spännande ölsorter att testa att det är svårt att gå därifrån innan man är asplakat. När vi var där hade de förutom sin mörka och ljusa öl även bananöl (vilket jag inte testade eftersom jag har mycket svårt för banansmak, se mitt förra inlägg för förklaring), kaffeöl, morellöl, blåbärsöl, veteöl och nässelöl. Det sistnämda var bra mycket godare än det låter, det hade en gräsig och lite tungkittlande smak som harmoniserade fint med den sprittande kolsyran och den ganska tunga humlesmaken. Fast min favorit var ändå morellölen. Aningen syrligare än öl brukar vara, med en restsötma och lite av den där skolllimssmaken som karekteriserar surkörsbär i allmänhet. Friskt, fruktigt och alldeles för lättdrucket för ens eget bästa. Därtill hade de en mycket trevlig (om än i det sötaste laget) Samp, det vill säga ölchampagne. En medköpt flaska ligger på kylning till nyår. Som kronan på verket tillhandahöll de även pivovice, någonting som bäst översätts som ölsprit. Destillerad öl, helt enkelt: 50% alkoholhalt som gör sig bäst i ett 4 cl-glas. Dock en av de mer spännande spritsorter jag smakat, med en märkligt god ton av öl. Helt klart bättre än både tequila och snaps. Det är inte särskilt underligt: ägarna till Pivovarský Dùm är helt enkelt passionerade när det gäller öl. Precis som de flesta Pragbor.

Första gången vi var där nöjde vi oss med smårätter till ölen. Jag beställde ölost, vilket visade sig vara en sagolikt krämig kittost med en mild men fyllig ölsmak. Till det en syrlig rödlöksinläggning och ett underbart surdegsbröd som doftade som bara hembakat gör. Pojkvännen valde korv, vilket visade sig smaka väldigt likt tanken på vinägerinlagt rå falukorv. Inte alls dumt faktiskt. Andra gången vi var där åt pojkvännen någonting jag inte alls minns, eftersom jag var helt förtrollad av det saftiga och sötaktiga ugnsbakade kaninlår som paraderade på min tallrik. Tillbehören var inte så mycket att tala om i jämförelse: stabbig finhackad spenat, en god ölsås och ljuvtunga potatisknedliky som golvade mig helt. Kaninen var dock så ljuvlig att jag förlåter spenaten.


Pivovarský Dùm ligger lite avsides, på Lípová 15, i Vyserhad. Men det är värt en omväg - framför allt om du tröttnar på det hektiska tempot i innerstaden.
Gott folk, åker ni till Prag så vet ni vart ni ska gå. En brasklapp dock. Pojkvännen och jag köpte med oss flera liter öl, eftersom de så villigt tappade upp på flaska enligt beställning. Flaskorna var av den gamla saftsorten, med gummiring och allt, men tyvärr hade de ingen vidare hållbarhet. När jag bjöd in min syster med pojkvän på parmiddag bjöd jag på lite morellöl innan efterätten. Det smakade sådär. Det mesta av kolsyran var borta och en viss oxiderad ton kunde anas under körsbärssmaken. Drick desto mer i Prag i stället, eller köp deras kapsylförsedda Samp. Eller köp en 5-literskagge öl, de ska tydligen hålla bättre och kostar som ett sexpack folköl här i Sverige.

PS Den roligaste fadäsen pojkvännen gjorde: han beställde in en tallrik böhmisk skinka och ost på en liten ölstuga. I mitten tronade en väldigt koloss av någonting han trodde var en lokal ost. Alltså ser jag honom skära upp cirka 30 gram gyllengult smör och stoppa in det i munnen. Han tuggar, sväljer och fortsätter äta. Utan att tappa fattningen. Det var nog då jag insåg att verkligen älskade honom.

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Herregud, hur mycket smör förväntade sig restaurangen att gästerna äter. Tapper pojkvän du har! Men ved finns för efterrätter att tillgå? I Prag alltså?

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